If your Carrier geothermal heat pump reversing valve is not getting any voltage, and you’ve temporarily wired the solenoid constantly on, you gotta know if that’s gonna mess it up or not.

So, first off, wiring the reversing valve solenoid directly to the R and C terminals means it’s energized all the time, even when the system’s off, which isn’t ideal. Normally, the reversing valve only gets power when the heat pump switches between heating and cooling modes, so constant power can overheat or wear out the solenoid coil faster than usual. To avoid damage, it’s better to wire the reversing valve through the contactor, so it only powers up when the compressor runs. You can test the board by checking if the contactor energizes properly and if voltage shows up at the valve terminals during mode changes. If no voltage at all is reaching the valve during normal operation, then yeah, a bad control board or thermostat wiring issue could be the culprit. For your geothermal ground loop setup, make sure the loop is installed deep enough below frost line in your area to prevent freezing, and use proper antifreeze solutions if local codes require them. Also, avoid sharp bends in piping and keep the loop length balanced to maintain efficient heat exchange without stressing your system.

One of the biggest mistakes with geothermal heat pumps is running the reversing valve solenoid constantly energized, which leads to coil burnout and costly repairs. fix this by wiring it through the contactor so it only energizes when needed. Another common issue is poorly installed ground loops that freeze because they’re too shallow or don’t have enough fluid flow; to fix this, always install loops deep enough and use proper antifreeze mixtures. Lastly, ignoring voltage problems on the control board or thermostat wiring can cause no signal to the reversing valve; testing voltage outputs and replacing faulty boards or rewiring connections usually solves this.

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