Start by turning off the water and confirming the shutoff has worked before touching any plumbing.

For the sink and faucet, close the main stop valves under the sink or the house shutoff and then open the faucet to drain residual water. Place a bucket and towels under the supply lines and use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nuts that connect supply lines to the faucet, then remove the old faucet mounting nuts from beneath the sink. Clean the sink surface and old putty or sealant with a scraper and rubbing alcohol so the new gasket or silicone adheres properly. Follow the new faucet manufacturer instructions exactly for gasket placement and torque specifications, hand tightening mounting nuts first and then finishing with a wrench a quarter turn to avoid cracking ceramic. Wrap all threaded water connections with plumber’s tape, wrapping clockwise three to four times so the tape does not unwrap when you screw fittings together, and hand-thread connectors before using tools to prevent cross-threading. For the toilet, turn off the toilet shutoff valve, flush to empty the tank, sponge remaining water from the bowl and tank, unscrew the supply line, unbolt the closet bolts, rock the toilet gently to break the old wax ring seal, lift straight up and set the toilet aside on cardboard.

Common mistakes are relying on only the house main shutoff without confirming no water remains at the fixture which can cause bursts or big spills; always open the fixture after shutting off to verify no flow. Cross-threading new fittings happens when connections are forced instead of started by hand; back the fitting out and start again slowly and straight to correct this. Over-tightening mounting nuts or supply fittings can crack porcelain or strip threads; tighten by hand then use a wrench for a small additional turn and test for leaks, tightening incrementally if needed.

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