Skipping proper surface prep destroys tile jobs fast.
Start by assessing the subfloor for level, dryness, and solidity, because tile needs a flat, stable base; remove any paint, adhesive, or loose material down to the substrate and use a self leveling compound on dips deeper than one quarter of an inch or over large areas that are uneven. Choose a cementitious backer board or an uncoupling membrane over wood subfloors to prevent movement and future cracks, and fasten and tape seams per manufacturer instructions so joints do not telegraph through tile. Mix thinset to the manufacturer specified consistency and only trowel enough for thirty to forty five minutes of open time so it stays both sticky and workable; comb with the correct sized notch trowel for the tile size and press tiles in with a slight twisting motion to collapse ridges and achieve full bedding. Always use consistent spacers to maintain grout joint size and check alignment frequently with a straightedge to avoid cumulative drift across the room. For wet areas add a waterproof membrane at the wall-to-floor junction and slope the drain area if present by one quarter of an inch per foot toward the drain to prevent pooling. Cut tiles using a scored snap cutter for straight cuts and a wet saw for notches and curves, reserve labeled cut pieces near their installation point so layout remains consistent with pattern and voids are predictable.
Beginners commonly skip bonding surface preparation which causes tiles to lift later, and the fix is to thoroughly clean, abrade, and prime or use a backer board that bonds well. Another frequent problem is rushing mortar application so you get voids under tiles; avoid this by applying mortar in small sections, back butter large format tile when needed, and periodically lift a tile to inspect coverage during the job. Thirdly, poor layout and measurement errors lead to tiny slivers at walls; address this by dry laying a row from the center out, measure both wall edges and adjust the center line so cut pieces at the perimeters are balanced, and label each cut tile to its location so the installer does not accidentally place an awkward piece.
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