Start by snapping a precise reference line across the bathroom floor to anchor your entire tile layout.

Measure the room length and width and find the center by measuring each wall and marking midpoint intersections, then square those midpoints by measuring diagonals until they are equal so your layout is balanced; transfer that center point to a stable reference line using a chalk box for a crisp line or a laser level for continuous guidance which reduces parallax errors; determine your tile field by dry-fitting full tiles from the center toward the walls to see where partial cuts will fall and shift the reference line slightly if you would otherwise end up with very narrow edge pieces under an inch; set the first row using a full tile plus your desired grout spacer width to establish the joint spacing, and secure the tiles temporarily with small weights or painters tape during dry fit so nothing moves when you start setting thinset; when ready to set, comb the thinset with a trowel appropriate to the tile size to achieve proper mortar coverage and press tiles firmly along the snapped reference line, checking alignment with a straightedge and tapping with a rubber mallet to correct any lippage; keep a consistent joint width by using spacers and recheck your reference line frequently as you move outward so cumulative deviations do not ruin the pattern.

Common mistakes include starting at a wall which leads to uneven edge pieces, so begin at the reference line and dry-fit to avoid tiny cuts; another issue is not accounting for fixtures or door swings which can lead to awkward cuts, so measure clearances and mock up tile placement around fixtures before cutting; a third problem is inadequate mortar coverage causing hollow sound and later failure, so use the correct trowel notch size and back butter large format or irregular tiles to ensure full contact.

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