Mark the profile with a fine pencil and cut the back of the baseboard until the profile stands out clearly for coping.

Start by holding the nailed face of the baseboard against a flat work surface and use a sharp pencil to trace the exact contour where it will meet the adjoining piece, making sure the pencil line follows the visible profile and not the face edge. Turn the board so you see the cutback and remove the bulk of the waste with a coping saw on a stable bench, sawing slowly and following the pencil line to keep the cut just inside the profile so the final pass is toward the face. When using the coping saw, use steady upward strokes that pull the blade through the wood fibers to reduce tear out and maintain a cleaner edge. After the saw work, use a small round or half-round file to work the cut to the final shape, taking small amounts of material and testing frequently by fitting the piece against the mating baseboard. If the joint still binds at high points, pare those areas with a sharp chisel held flat and at a shallow angle to avoid creating gaps. Finish by sanding lightly with fine grit paper along the shaped edge to remove tool marks and ensure the joint sits flush when seated and nailed.

A common mistake is tracing the wrong edge so the coping cut does not match the visible profile, which you fix by re-tracing the exact exposed contour and recutting slightly inside the line. Another issue is sawing on the downstroke which tears fibers and creates a ragged edge, and the remedy is to saw on the upstroke with a blade suited for fine cuts and keep the workpiece well supported. People often rush the filing and remove too much material causing gaps, so file conservatively, check the fit repeatedly, and keep a small stash of scrap to practice shaping before working on the actual piece.

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