Decide between mitering and coping a baseboard corner based on corner type and wall straightness.
For outside corners where two walls meet and form an external angle, use a miter cut because you can cut both pieces at half the corner angle so they meet cleanly and the joint presents a continuous profile. For inside corners cope the profile of the baseboard rather than trying to match two imperfect wall angles because coping yields a tight fit even when walls are slightly out of square. To cope, cut one piece square into the corner and cut the mating piece on a coping saw following the decorative profile so it overlaps the face of the first piece; file or sand the back of the cope for a snug fit. When preparing either joint measure the corner with a reliable bevel gauge or protractor and transfer that angle to your saw rather than assuming ninety degrees; this prevents visible gaps and misaligned profiles. Always test on scrap stock of the same profile and thickness, then make final cuts only when the mock joint fits well; this is faster than sanding or filling afterwards. Nail into studs or use construction adhesive where appropriate and conceal fasteners with wood filler, then lightly sand and paint or stain to blend the joint.
Three common mistakes are cutting both inside corner pieces with miters when walls are not plumb which creates gaps and a visible seam, so cope the profile for a tighter finish on uneven walls. Another issue is overcutting the cope where too much material is removed from the back of the profile causing rocking; avoid this by tracing the profile onto the scrap, cutting slowly, and dry fitting frequently. A third problem is failing to scribe or square the end of the mating piece which causes a shadow gap along the wall; correct that by using a block plane or sanding block to fine tune the joint edge until the face sits flat against the wall.
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