Dry-fitting baseboards before nailing saves time and prevents visible gaps and costly rework.

Dry-fit each piece in sequence against the wall and adjoining boards, checking for flushness, consistent reveal, and tight joints before you ever pick up a nail gun or hammer. Start by cutting and placing one full-length board at a time, hold it in the exact final position and examine both top and bottom edges against the wall and floor; small gaps at the top usually mean wall irregularities that require scribing or shimming. For inside corners test the coped or mitered joint and adjust the mating profile until there is no daylight when pieces meet; for outside corners verify the miter closes under light pressure and file tiny high spots with a block plane. Mark precise nail locations on the baseboard where studs lie by using a stud finder or by tapping to hear a solid sound and transfer those marks to the board so you can fasten into solid backing. If you encounter uneven floors, use thin paint stick shims behind the baseboard at the low spots and trim them flush after nailing; if reveal at the top is inconsistent, back bevel the top slightly or use a sanding block to blend. Once every joint and length fits cleanly, remove each piece only long enough to apply adhesive if desired and then reinstall and drive fasteners at your marked points; this sequence prevents splitting and keeps joints tight while making final caulking minimal.

Common mistakes start with nailing pieces up immediately without test fitting which leads to mismatched joints and visible gaps, so always place and inspect before fastening. Cutting corners inaccurately by relying only on measurements instead of test placement creates repeated recuts, so make incremental cuts and test often. Failing to account for wall and floor irregularities by forcing boards flat causes twisting and nail pops later, so scribe, shim, or use flexible caulk to accommodate small deviations and recheck after fastening.

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