Use a firm sanding and thorough cleaning routine so paint bonds to the baseboard and does not lift where it meets carpet.

Start by removing loose paint with a medium grit sanding block and fill any gouges or nail holes with a quick-setting wood filler, then sand smooth to a feathered edge so the new coat has a uniform surface to bite into. Wipe the entire baseboard with a damp lint-free rag and follow with a tack cloth to remove hair and fine dust that will interfere with adhesion; allow full drying before priming. If the baseboard is bare wood or has exposed filler use a high-quality oil-based or bonding primer applied in thin even coats, and for previously painted glossy surfaces scuff sand to create tooth rather than relying on primer alone. Use a sash brush for the trim and pull paint away from the carpet edge rather than pushing toward it to avoid excess build up that can peel later. Protect the carpet with low-tack painter tape pressed firmly to the baseboard or use a thin flexible trim shield held at a slight angle so you can cut in cleanly without compressing bristles into the carpet pile. Choose a semi-gloss or gloss trim paint formulated for trim because those films are harder and more washable which helps seals the joint where paint meets carpet.

Common problems start with sanding dust and hair left behind which causes the paint to skim and flake; fix that by wiping with a damp rag then a tack cloth and rechecking for fibers before priming. A second frequent issue is using a heavy load of paint at the carpet edge which sags or forms a thick bead that loses adhesion later; avoid that by cutting in with a slightly dry brush and doing a second light coat rather than a single heavy one. Third, inadequate priming or painting over incompatible finishes leads to poor bonding; resolve this by identifying the existing finish, scuff sanding glossy surfaces, and using a proper bonding primer or a paint labeled for direct-to-metal or trim use to ensure chemical compatibility.

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