Start your first row with a precise reference line and a clear plan for how the planks will run so every subsequent row stays true.

Begin by identifying the wall that will be most visible when the door is open and measure out from that wall to establish where the front edge of the first plank will sit. Use a square to check that the line you plan to follow is exactly ninety degrees to the adjacent wall by measuring the three foot and four foot points or by using a large framing square for confirmation. Snap a chalk line along that reference edge on the subfloor and dry-fit a row of planks along it to confirm how the end cuts will look at both ends; if the last plank would be shorter than two inches adjust your starting position so you have balanced end pieces. Install the first row with consistent spacers along the perimeter to maintain the manufacturer recommended expansion gap and use a pull bar to seat end joints tightly without damaging the locking profile. For rooms with fixtures like toilets or tubs scribe cutouts directly to the profile of the fixture and dry-fit those pieces before gluing or locking, which prevents gaps and forces the row to remain true. If the subfloor is not flat, shim under high spots or sand low areas to create a flat plane because a warped first row will magnify alignment issues as you install more rows.

Common mistakes start with not choosing the right reference wall which leaves the flooring out of square to the most visible sightline, so always measure and mock up before fastening the first row. Another frequent error is skipping the dry-fit step that reveals awkward end pieces, and the easy fix is to test layout and shift the starting chalk line so both ends finish with balanced plank widths. Finally, inconsistent spacer use and uneven subflooring cause gaps and lippage; maintain uniform spacer placement and correct the subfloor before laying the first row.

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