For installing a door strike plate and deadbolt in a new jamb, use the correct drill bits and chisels to get clean, accurate cutouts without splitting the wood.

For latch holes use a five eighths inch spade bit set in a drill with a depth stop and bore only to the thickness specified by the hardware, which prevents overdrilling into the frame; for through bolt holes use a three quarter inch bit for most deadbolt cylinders but check the manufacturer drawing and measure the cylinder first. Use a half inch bevel or firmer chisel for mortising around the strike plate and deadbolt faceplate because that width balances control and material removal, and keep the chisel sharp for clean cuts that do not tear the grain. An oscillating multi tool with a wood cutting blade speeds up the recess and gives precise corner shapes that spade bits cannot, and you can follow the hardware as a template for a perfect fit. Always mark locations with a pencil and a small square, then drill shallow pilot holes before committing to full depth so you can adjust alignment without large mistakes. When working with soft or engineered jambs, clamp a scrap backing board to reduce tear out and support the wood as you chisel or drill. Verify depth by placing the hardware in the recess and measuring from face to tip so the strike sits flush and the bolt rides square through the hole.

Common errors start with overdrilling too deep which makes the strike sit proud or requires filler; avoid this by using a depth stop or tape on the bit and test fit constantly. A second issue is chisel dullness that rips fibers and leaves jagged edges; keep chisels sharp and pare in small increments while holding the tool square to the face. Third is misaligned holes causing the deadbolt to bind; prevent that by laying out accurate centerlines for both latch and bolt, clamping a template when possible, and dry fitting hardware before final fastening.

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