Check the subfloor carefully before you commit to laying large format tile.

Start by using a long straightedge or a four foot level to scan the entire floor for deviations greater than one eighth of an inch over a ten foot span, marking high and low spots as you go. For low spots flush fill with a cementitious self leveling compound applied after priming per the manufacturer instructions and allow full cure time which is usually at least twenty four hours; work from the lowest point outward so the material flows to the deepest dips. For high spots grind or screed them down with an angle grinder fitted with a diamond cup wheel or use a thin layer of polymer modified mortar to feather down the edge so you avoid abrupt transitions that will telegraph through the tile. If the substrate is plywood or other brittle material tighten loose panels by adding screws every six to eight inches along joist lines and reinforce severely deflected areas with an additional layer of exterior grade plywood glued and screwed with construction adhesive and ring shank screws. When dealing with cracks or movement risk, install an uncoupling membrane such as a fabric backed membrane or a decoupling mat to isolate the tile layer from substrate movement and follow the manufacturer guidelines for mortar coverage and thinset notch sizes. Always perform a snap chalk line layout and dry lay several tiles to confirm joints remain straight over the prepared surface before final bedding.

Common mistakes include skipping a full level survey which leads to tiles that crack from concentrated flex; fix that by measuring systematically with a straightedge and addressing any deviation greater than one eighth of an inch in ten feet. Another issue is using the wrong repair material like applying a flexible patch where a cementitious leveling compound is required which causes bonding failures; use products specified for tile underlayment and follow mixing and priming instructions closely. A third problem is inadequate substrate reinforcement on old or damaged wood floors which results in bounce and eventual grout failure; resolve this by adding a proper plywood overlay or mechanically fastening the existing panels and using an uncoupling membrane to protect the tile installation.

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