Pressure testing gas lines for leaks should always include a careful inspection of the flare connection surface and nut, because a leaking flare after multiple attempts usually points to damaged or improperly formed flare components.
When a flare connection keeps leaking after several attempts, first remove the fitting and examine the flare surface under good light or with a magnifier: look for scratches, nicks, gouges, or cold flow ridges on both the male flare and the mating cone inside the nut, because even hairline damage will prevent a metal-to-metal seal. Second, measure the flare angle and flare width with a flare gauge or a vernier caliper. standard fittings use a forty-five degree flare for most gas work. any deviation or an oval shape means the tubing must be refared or replaced; do not try to force a damaged flare to seal. Third, inspect the nut threads and the cone inside the nut for deformation or extrusion; a nut with a flattened cone will not compress the flare evenly and should be replaced rather than chased. Fourth, check the tubing end for a clean ninety degree cut and proper deburring; a jagged or angled cut creates gaps and stresses the flare when tightened. Fifth, verify the flare tool setup: the clamp jaws must center the tubing and the flaring cone must be free of burrs and lubricated per tool manufacturer guidance to produce a uniform flare. Sixth, if you suspect work hardening or cracked tubing at the flare, cut back past the suspect area and refare a new section; never attempt to reuse a work hardened or microcracked flare. Seventh, for stainless steel and copper lines, consider using a flare backed by a thin ferrule or sleeve only when specified. otherwise a sleeve can prevent proper seating. Eighth, after assembly perform a pressure test with soap solution or an approved electronic leak detector at the joint while holding the system at test pressure for the required dwell time; if bubbles or detector alarms persist, disassemble and repeat the inspection steps rather than over-tightening, which only damages components further.
One of the biggest mistakes is assuming a tight nut equals a good seal. over-tightening often causes flare deformation and thread damage; fix this by replacing the damaged components and using a torque wrench to the manufacturer specified torque. One of the next common errors is reusing a visibly scored or oval flare which leads to persistent gas leak problems and failed pressure tests; the corrective action is to cut back the tubing and produce a fresh, concentric flare with a properly maintained flaring tool. One of the third frequent issues is contamination or burrs on the flare surfaces that prevent seating and create small leak paths; remedy this by thoroughly deburring, cleaning with a lint-free cloth and solvent, and reassembling with new nuts if the cone surfaces show any damage.
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