Shut off the gas supply and confirm the flame is out before any work begins on a gas water heater.

Start with preparation that prevents injury. Turn the gas control to off, close the gas shutoff valve, and switch the electrical power to off if the unit has an electric igniter. Let the tank and flue fully cool, which can take at least one hour, then verify there is no residual heat by carefully touching the outer jacket near the draft hood. Use a combustible gas detector or a soap and water solution to check all exposed joints for leaks before opening anything. Remove the burner assembly according to the manufacturer guide, noting the order of parts, and lightly brush and vacuum the burner ports, pilot or hot surface igniter area, and the combustion chamber. Inspect the thermocouple or flame sensor for soot or corrosion, clean it with fine steel wool, and replace it if the tip is pitted or the wire insulation is brittle.

Now the common mistakes. People rush and test with a lighter for leaks, which is dangerous; instead use a gas detector or brush on a soap solution and watch for bubbles. Many skip draft and ventilation checks; a simple test is to hold a lit match near the draft hood with the burner running and confirm the flame pulls in, not out, and if it spills, clear obstructions and improve makeup air. Some over tighten gas fittings, distorting threads and causing leaks; snug them with two wrenches, use gas rated thread sealant, and if a joint will not seal, disassemble, reapply sealant, and reassemble without forcing it.

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