Need an even gap between your door and jamb so the door operates smoothly and looks right.

Start by assessing which side of the door is tight using a thin feeler or the edge of a credit card to gauge the gap along the height. If the tightness is at the hinge side lift the door slightly while supporting its weight; use stacked wooden shims or stiff cards in the hinge mortise to move the hinge leaf outwards a small amount and retighten the screws one at a time while checking the gap. For small adjustments use an air wedge pumped gently under the door near the hinge side to raise the door a few millimeters while you insert shims or tighten screws so the door stays in position as you work. If the gap is uneven along the height you may need to double shim the top hinge and leave the bottom hinge unchanged or vice versa to create a parallel plane for the door to swing on; always loosen the hinge screws minimally so the hinge can shift and avoid stripping fasteners by supporting the door. When fasteners are marginal replace them with slightly longer screws that bite into the framing for a secure hold and to prevent the hinge from rotating later. Consider installing manufactured adjustable hinge shims or hinge spacers for a cleaner long term fix when shimming with temporary cards is not ideal; these devices thread or slide to fine tune hinge location without altering the jamb or door.

Common mistakes start with not supporting the door properly which lets it sag and makes gaps worse; hold the leaf with a block or have a helper while you work. Another problem is over tightening screws before the hinge is correctly positioned which locks a misaligned state; always snug screws only after confirming the gap and then torque them evenly. Third is using too thin or compressible shims that compress over time and let the gap shift; choose hardwood shims or thin metal hinge shims for permanence and replace any compressible material when you finish.

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