In this video, I’m breaking down whether your new roofing patio job for ten grand is actually up to par or if you’re just being too picky about the work.

Alright, so here’s the deal with roofing patio installations, especially when you’ve dropped a solid chunk of change like ten thousand bucks. First off, you wanna make sure they ripped off the old roof completely before starting fresh, that means no shortcuts with old layers left underneath. Then they should replace any rotted plywood with at least three-quarter-inch thickness for proper stability, and it sounds like that part was done, which is good. When it comes to the membrane, PVC is pretty common but honestly, it’s kinda notorious for weak spots at seams and penetrations where leaks usually show up first. So if you’re seeing uneven seams or patchy spots, that’s a legit concern because those areas need tight, clean sealing to hold up over time. Ideally, a seamless liquid membrane would be better for foot traffic areas since it forms a monolithic barrier without joints that can fail. Also, they should have tucked the membrane under siding and up parapets a couple of feet to prevent water intrusion, sounds like they did that, which is standard practice. But if the seams look rough or sloppy, that’s a red flag; those spots are where leaks sneak in later. So yeah, it’s not totally unreasonable to be critical here because a job like this should look clean and professional to match the price.

One of the biggest mistakes I see with roofing patios is poor seam work on PVC membranes, those open up way too easily and cause leaks down the line, so insist on tight, well-sealed edges. Another common issue is not fully removing the old membrane or plywood, which can trap moisture and rot the deck underneath; always confirm that teardown was done right. Lastly, some contractors skip proper prep on wood surfaces before applying the membrane, which leads to uneven adhesion and weak spots, make sure all wood is smooth and dry before installation to avoid this.

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