Start by removing tile in a controlled way so the subfloor beneath stays intact.

Use a scoring tool to break through any surface finish first and then pry tiles up with a flat pry bar held nearly parallel to the floor so the force is applied across the tile and not directly into the subfloor. Work one small area at a time and lift tiles slowly rather than smashing them out, because sudden impacts transmit shock into the substrate and cause cracks. If you must use a rotary or demolition tool, select a chisel bit with a wide, flat face and run it at low speed while keeping the tool moving; prolonged contact in one spot concentrates heat and stress and can delaminate plywood or oriented strand board. Keep handheld chisels and pry bars angled shallowly, pulling toward yourself while sliding the tool under the tile and mortar bed, rather than driving the tool straight down. Frequently stop and inspect the exposed subfloor for hairline fractures, splintering, or torn veneer; when you see surface damage, switch to gentler methods immediately and clean debris to reveal the true condition. When mortar or thinset remains bonded, soften it first with a chemical thinset remover or apply steam on a small test patch to reduce required prying force rather than levering harder.

The three most common mistakes are using excessive force, employing the wrong tool profile, and ignoring early signs of damage. For excessive force, stop and change technique to gradual prying or thermal or chemical softening so you do not crack the subfloor or shear off veneer layers. For the wrong tool profile, replace pointed or narrow chisel bits with wide, flat scrapers and keep the shaft nearly horizontal so you redistribute force across the tile and thinset instead of focusing it on a small area of the subfloor. For ignoring damage, make frequent visual and tactile checks and address nicks immediately by gluing and clamping veneer tears or filling gaps with a compatible exterior grade wood filler or a thin plywood patch before continuing work.

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