If adjusting the hinges does not fix your sagging door, you need a methodical escalation plan that measures exact misalignment and moves the hinge or door where required.

Start by marking where the door hangs relative to the jamb and measure the vertical gap at the latch and strike plate to determine how far the door must be lowered. Remove the hinge screws and support the door with a padded block so it does not fall, then loosen or take off the hinge plates to test repositioning. If lowering the hinge is needed, trace the hinge outline on the door or jamb, chisel a new deeper recess an increment at a time and test fit the hinge until the door aligns; keep cuts small so you do not overremove material. When the door rubs along the top or bottom, plane the edge of the door by removing thin shavings with a sharp plane, checking fit frequently so you do not remove too much. For larger misalignments consider full hinge relocation by mortising a new hinge position higher or lower on the jamb and matching that on the door so the line of load transfers correctly; transfer measurements carefully and use clamps to hold parts during screwing. If the jamb itself is warped or the frame has shifted, remove trim, shim the jamb to plumb using long screws through the frame into studs, and then rehang the door using the corrected jamb position.

Common mistakes include cutting too much from the hinge recess or door edge which makes the door loose and causes gaps; avoid this by removing material in small increments and test fitting after each change. Another frequent error is relying solely on hinge screw tightening when the frame is out of plumb which only provides a temporary fix; address the root cause by measuring the jamb and adding shims or long screws into framing studs. People also often skip supporting the door properly when removing hinges and risk injury or damage; always block the door securely and work with a helper for heavy doors.

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