Start by focusing on loosening the bond between tile and substrate so you can remove large sections rather than chipping away at every piece.

Begin by scoring grout lines with a grout saw or a rotary tool fitted with a grout removal blade to free edges and reduce stress on surrounding tiles. Test a small area to determine how brittle the tile is and how tenacious the mastic bond remains; ceramic and porcelain behave differently and natural stone may fracture unpredictably. Apply a mastic softener or a heat gun set to a moderate temperature and work in short passes to avoid damaging drywall or backer board; softeners chemically break down the adhesive, and heat will make it more pliable. Use a broad putty knife or a stiff drywall taping knife and tap it behind a loosened edge to lever whole tiles or larger sheets off the wall; aim to keep the blade flat and move along the seam to prevent gouging. If tiles are stubborn, switch to an oscillating multi tool with a rigid scraper blade and use steady, controlled strokes to separate tile from mastic without punching through the substrate. Always wear eye protection, a dust mask rated for fine particles, and gloves, and support removed tile so it does not fall and shatter; work from top to bottom and dispose of shards safely.

Common mistakes include starting with small picks and chipping every tile which is slow and creates unnecessary dust and holes; instead liberate edges first and try to remove intact sections. Another mistake is using excessive heat which can scorch drywall, warp backer board, or crack tile; use moderate heat, short passes, and test frequently. A third issue is assuming the substrate beneath is uniform; mastic can hide soft or damaged backer board so probe behind a removed tile and be prepared to repair or replace a section of backer board before installing new tile.

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