Old mortar and lath can cling to a subfloor so tenaciously that standard prying never wins.

Start by scoring and softening the mortar line with a rotary tool fitted with a carbide grinding wheel or cup brush, working slowly to avoid gouging the underlying joists or subfloor. Follow with a small cold chisel held at a low angle and a light hammer tap to lift thin flakes; keep the chisel sharp and replace if it mushrooms. For thicker beds, use a handheld demolition hammer with a narrow flat chisel bit and maintain a steady, controlled motion to break the mortar without punching through beneath. If you encounter metal lath or expanded metal, cut it into manageable strips with aviation snips or an angle grinder fitted with a cutoff wheel, bend those strips upward and pry them out with a wrecking bar using fulcrum points on intact board edges. Work in small sections about two feet square, bagging heavy debris as you go to keep the workspace clear and reduce lifting injuries. Always wear a respirator rated for silica and dust, eye protection, long sleeves and gloves, and wet the surface lightly before grinding if water and tool safety allow to suppress airborne dust.

Common mistakes include trying to lever up large areas at once which risks subfloor damage and back strain; work in smaller sections and use tools suited to the scale of material you are removing. Another frequent issue is ignoring hidden fasteners and metal lath which catches on pry bars; pre-cut metal with snips or grinders and clear nails or staples with a screw puller or pry bar before levering. A third concern is silica dust exposure from old mortar; control it by dampening surfaces, using a vacuum with a high efficiency particulate air filter on power tools, and taking breaks to change filters and clean clothing after shifts.

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