Yes, the same approach works for vertical cracks when you choose the right materials and application technique.

Assess the crack first by cleaning out loose debris with a wire brush or narrow chisel, then blow or vacuum the dust so the sealant bonds to sound substrate. For vertical cracks pick a non sag urethane caulk because it will adhere without running and remains flexible as the structure moves; push the material deep into the gap with a pointed tool or a caulking nozzle and smooth it with a wet finger or a putty knife for full contact. For slightly sloped surfaces a semi self leveling polyurethane can flow enough to fill the joint but will not sag on true verticals so test a small area first. Avoid self leveling sealants on vertical joints because they will run and leave voids that trap moisture which leads to re cracking. Prepare edges with a primer when working on porous or dusty concrete to improve adhesion and follow manufacturer cure times before painting or applying a finish. Finally consider joint backing rod for deep cracks: compress a foam rod to the appropriate diameter, seat it to control sealant depth, and prevent three sided adhesion which causes premature failure.

The three common mistakes are using a self leveling sealant on a vertical surface which results in dripping and poor fill, applying sealant over dirty or damp surfaces that prevent adhesion, and overfilling deep cracks which causes poor curing and stress. If a self leveling product is used on a vertical surface swap it for a non sag urethane caulk and redo the joint. If adhesion fails because of contamination clean to sound substrate and use an appropriate primer before resealing. For deep cracks remove loose material and install a backer rod to limit depth then apply sealant to the correct bead thickness so it cures uniformly.

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