Patio slope should move water away from the house at a rate that prevents ponding while keeping surfaces accessible.

For paved patios the practical thumb rule is a minimum slope of one eighth inch to one quarter inch per foot away from the house which equals about one percent to two percent slope; measure with a level and a tape and mark elevations at regular intervals so you do not guess. For accessible routes limit cross slope to two percent or less so wheelchairs and walkers remain stable; use the main fall in the direction away from the house and keep transverse slope shallow. Where site constraints create low spots install positive drainage such as linear drains, interior catch basins, or adjust subgrade elevations rather than relying on surface runneling. When using permeable pavers remember they still need a slight slope for runoff during extreme events yet allow infiltration between storm peaks. Compact and set a consistent edge restraint so settling does not introduce reverse slopes later; check grade again after bedding sand is compacted and before joint sand is added. For transitions to hardscape elements such as door thresholds or ramps keep a gradual grade and verify threshold height to maintain weather seals and ADA friendly clearances.

Common mistakes are putting zero slope against the house which causes water to pond and enter the foundation; correct this by regrading the first two feet away from the wall to meet the one eighth inch per foot minimum and add a drain if space is limited. Another frequent issue is excessive cross slope that impedes mobility and causes trips; remedy that by reorienting fall direction so the long run carries the grade and by limiting transverse slope to two percent or less. Finally people skip verifying post-install settlement which creates reverse slopes and new low spots; prevent this by allowing for slightly higher initial grade to account for settlement, compacting subgrade properly, and inspecting slopes ninety days after heavy rains.

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