Start by measuring carefully and planning each cut so tiles fit neatly around doorways and corners without gaps or awkward shapes.

Measure the opening twice and transfer those measurements to the tile with a pencil, then dry fit the tile against the doorway or corner to confirm placement before cutting. For straight cuts use a score and snap tile cutter for ceramic up to medium thickness and a wet saw with a continuous rim blade for thicker or glazed pieces to get a clean edge. When working around door jambs or irregular profiles make a cardboard or thin plywood template by tracing the obstacle and test fitting it on the floor so you can transfer the exact shape to the tile. For tight curved cuts use a rubbing stone or a tile nipper to remove small amounts gradually, working from the outside in and keeping frequent dry fits to avoid overcutting. Always wear eye protection, a dust mask, and gloves and support the tile fully while cutting to prevent chipping and breakage. Finish visible edges with a sanding stone or an edging file and apply a full bed of thinset mortar behind cut pieces to ensure they are well supported and do not settle over time.

Common mistakes include cutting tiles too small because of measuring once then assuming the cut will be correct, which leads to gaps; remedy this by measuring twice and always dry fitting before making the final cut. Another issue is chipping glazed edges from using the wrong blade or cutter; avoid this by using a continuous rim wet saw for finished edges or score and snap for appropriate tile, and back each cut with masking tape if chipping has been a problem. A third concern is under supporting cut tiles near doorways which can cause cracking under foot traffic; prevent this by using a full bed of thinset mortar under the entire tile, and if the space is narrow consider a cement backer board or additional mortar to create a solid substrate.

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