Avoid lippage by establishing a perfectly flat substrate and a disciplined installation routine before you lay the first tile.

Start by confirming the subfloor is level to within one eighth of an inch over a ten foot span using a straightedge and winding sticks to detect localized high spots or hollows. If you find deviations, pour a self leveling compound after priming or flatten with a cement backer board over staggered seams and properly fasten to the structure to eliminate flex. Use a three millimeter to four millimeter notched trowel for porcelain or large format tile to ensure full back buttering and complete mortar coverage; for larger tiles also back butter the tile with thin set and press with a slight twist to collapse air pockets. Employ a mechanical tile leveling system on every corner of each tile to hold adjacent faces flush while the thin set cures, removing clips or caps per the manufacturer once the mortar has gained initial set. Check each row as you go with a long straightedge and a grade laser or spirit level, tapping low tiles up or high tiles down immediately with a rubber mallet and a beating block so you do not lock in errors. Maintain consistent mortar open time and work in manageable bays so you can adjust tiles while the mortar is still plastic rather than trying to correct them after cure.

Common mistakes include trusting a visually flat floor that actually has localized high spots, which you correct by measuring with a straightedge and levelling or using backer board where needed; ignoring full mortar coverage which causes hollow spots and future movement, and that you prevent by back buttering and using the correct size notched trowel and periodic lift checks to verify coverage; and skipping a tile leveling method or removing spacers too early, which leads to settled edges, so use a consistent leveling routine and only remove devices when the manufacturer indicates the mortar has gained sufficient set.

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