The old supply valve on your toilet has to come off and a new compression valve must go on the supply pipe to restore reliable water flow.

Shut off the main water supply or the house shutoff and flush the toilet to drain the tank and bowl so the line is as empty as possible, then place a small container or towel under the valve to catch residual water. Use an adjustable wrench to hold the supply pipe fitting steady while you turn the valve body counterclockwise to break any decades-old corrosion; if the valve is stubborn, apply penetrating oil and wait ten to fifteen minutes before trying again to avoid rounding the nut. Once the old valve is removed, wipe the pipe end clean and inspect the ferrule area for damage; if the copper is deformed, cut back a little and deburr the end with a file to ensure a smooth seat for the compression ferrule. Slide the new compression nut onto the pipe followed by the compression ring with the tapered side facing the valve, push the valve fully against the pipe shoulder, then hand-tighten the nut until it seats and finish with a wrench for a quarter to half turn to achieve a solid compression seal without over-tightening. Turn the water back on slowly and listen and feel for leaks at the compression nut while the tank refills, and then cycle the toilet to confirm a steady refill and correct shutoff. If you see a slow leak, tighten the nut another quarter turn; if the leak persists, replace the ferrule and try again because a damaged ferrule will not seal.

Common issues include a stuck or corroded valve body that refuses to turn, which you can often free by applying penetrating oil and using a wrench with a longer handle for extra leverage while protecting the pipe with a backup wrench. Another problem is a crushed or improperly seated compression ferrule that causes a persistent drip; remedy this by cutting back the pipe slightly, installing a new ferrule and nut, and tightening properly by hand then with a wrench. A third concern is over-tightening the compression nut which can deform the pipe and create leaks later; tighten only to a snug hand-tight plus a small wrench turn and retest, and if sealing fails, replace the ferrule and reinstall with the correct torque.

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