Measure each baseboard run individually and transfer exact corner profiles to the board before cutting.
Start by holding the board in place and scribing the wall profile directly onto the back of the baseboard using a sharp pencil while keeping the board seated against the floor and corner. For inside corners, butt the baseboard into the corner and use a compass or scribing tool to copy the wall contour, or run a flexible ruler along the gap and trace that curve onto the board. For outside corners, mark the reveal of the corner on the board face and read the angle with a sliding bevel so you can set your miter saw accurately. When two boards meet in the middle of a run, cut one piece slightly long and the mating piece slightly short, then trim the long piece in small increments until you get a tight joint without forcing the boards. Use a chalk line or a laser level set to the desired top or bottom alignment to ensure the board stays straight relative to other runs, and double check your floor clearance by measuring at both ends and the midpoint to account for uneven floors. Finally, label each board on the back with its position and orientation so you can reinstall quickly without second guessing which end goes where.
A common mistake is assuming walls are square and cutting every piece to the same length which causes gaps; avoid this by measuring and transferring the actual wall shape for every piece. Another frequent issue is relying only on visual alignment instead of a level which yields a wavy installation; use a laser level or a long straightedge and measure at multiple points to set a consistent reference line. People also often overcut in one pass on the miter saw and cannot recover from the error; prevent that by making progressive test cuts on scrap and by cutting slightly long then trimming down to a perfect fit.
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