To keep replacement asphalt shingles flat and resistant to wind uplift, follow precise fastening and sealing steps every time.

Fasten shingles to the roof deck using the manufacturer specified nail type, length, and placement; typically use galvanized or stainless steel nails long enough to penetrate through the shingle and into the deck by at least three eighths of an inch, placing four nails per shingle in standard exposure areas and six nails in high wind zones. Align shingles so they lie flush at the eaves and rake, tapping each nail until the shingle sits flat without overdriving, which can split the shingle or strip the deck. Use roof cement or a compatible polymerized roofing adhesive sparingly under the leading and trailing edges and at any cutouts to bond shingles to the layer below, concentrating on areas where wind tends to get under edges such as hips, ridges, and valleys. After nailing and adhesive placement, press the shingle edges by hand or with a flat block to seat the adhesive and confirm full contact; allow proper cure time per adhesive instructions before exposing to strong winds. Replace any warped or wet decking that prevents the shingle from lying flat, and when replacing decking, ensure it is flush and smooth with proper fastener spacing to prevent localized high or low spots. Finally, inspect flashings, step flashings, and adjacent terminations and, where appropriate, install a wind and ice shield membrane at eaves and rakes to provide a solid substrate and additional bonding surface for the shingles.

Common mistakes include using nails that are too short or noncorrosive resistant which pull out or rust and let shingles lift, so always match nail length and material to manufacturer guidance and roof deck thickness. Overdriving or underdriving nails is frequent, creating buckles or loose shingles, so drive nails until the shingle lies flat but the seal strip is not crushed and the shank is snug to the shingle surface. Another issue is failing to address uneven decking which leaves shingles creased or not fully adhered, so remove and replace any delaminated or cupped boards and shim or plane edges so the new shingle courses lie level.

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