Start by cutting a clean paint line and working with thin coats for a factory smooth baseboard finish.

Prepare the surface by wiping all dust and wiping any fresh caulk with a damp cloth so the bead is flush and smooth, then let it fully cure before touching paint. Use a small angled sash brush for edges and detail work because the angle lets you keep a steady control of paint flow and follow contours without overloading. Load the brush with a modest amount of paint and tap off excess on the rim rather than wiping it, so you avoid drips and heavy brush strokes. Sand gently with a fine grit sanding block between coats on the face and edges to remove nibs and raise a consistent tooth for the next layer. Apply two thin coats of a high quality paint formulated for trim rather than one heavy coat, and maintain a wet edge by working along the run without stopping and starting in the middle. For tricky corners, pull the brush away from the wall toward the floor so gravity helps keep a flat finish and use light, long strokes instead of short scrubbing motions.

The three common mistakes are overloading the brush which causes drips and thick brush marks, skipping the light sanding between coats which leaves dust nibs and poor adhesion, and painting onto uncured caulk which results in uneven texture and poor paint bond. If you overload the brush, simply remove excess paint on the can rim and rebrush gently along the run to level the film while it is still wet. If you skip sanding, go back with a fine sanding block, wipe clean, and recoat thinly so the paint levels out. If you paint over uncured caulk, wait for it to fully cure, smooth it with a damp cloth or a little sand if needed, then prime a tiny patch if the caulk is very porous before finishing.

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