Always check layout squareness before you spread any adhesive.

Measure and mark the room from both directions and snap chalk lines to establish a true center and verify that opposing walls are parallel within a few millimeters over the span you will tile. Prepare the substrate by removing loose material, repairing cracks, and ensuring the floor or wall is flat to within three millimeters over a one meter span, using a leveling compound where needed. Dry fit tiles across the marked layout including full tiles and cut pieces to confirm pattern, grout joint spacing, and where narrow edge cuts would appear so you can shift the layout to avoid tiny slivers. When selecting thinset mortar choose the correct type for the tile and substrate and mix to the manufacturer specified consistency, using a medium notch trowel and back buttering large format tiles when necessary to achieve full bedding. Blend tiles from multiple cartons by opening several boxes and mixing pieces as you go to avoid visible shade or texture banding. Allow proper cure time before grouting and use the correct grout joint width and sealant for movement joints to prevent later cracking and staining.

The three most common mistakes are not checking layout squareness, skipping dry fitting, and failing to blend tile from multiple boxes. If you do not verify that the layout is square you can end up with walls that force tiny cut tiles at one end; fix this by snapping chalk lines, measuring diagonals, and adjusting the center line until both sides balance. Skipping a dry fit means surprises when the adhesive is wet; always lay out tiles dry, adjust patterns and edge cuts, and photograph the layout if you need to replicate it later. Not blending tile from different cartons causes visible shading streaks; avoid that by opening multiple cartons up front and placing tiles from different boxes evenly across the field as you install.

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