Tap and scrape the remaining mortar to verify it is stable and will support a new tile layer.
Start by clearing loose debris with a stiff broom and then vacuuming with a high suction cleaner to reveal the true condition of the thinset. Use a small hammer or the handle of a screwdriver to tap across the area; a solid, ringing sound means the mortar is likely sound while a dull, hollow thud indicates voids or delamination. For a focused check, use a putty knife or scraper to pry at several spots, aiming to find any edges that lift or crumble; mark those zones for repair or removal. Measure the remaining layer thickness with a depth gauge or a straightedge and feeler gauges if precision is needed, because too thin a layer may not allow proper adhesive bonding for a new installation. When you encounter small voids less than one quarter inch deep and less than a few square inches in area consider using a compatible cementitious patch product applied per manufacturer instructions and allow full cure time before tiling. If more than twenty percent of the floor area shows hollowness or the mortar flakes away under light pressure plan on complete removal back to the substrate and resetting a proper mortar bed.
Common mistakes include trusting a cosmetic appearance without testing which leads to hidden failures, so always perform tap and scrape checks across a representative grid to avoid surprises. Another error is attempting to skim over widespread weak mortar instead of removing it, which causes new tile to debond, so remove and replace any large soft sections and do not exceed patch size recommendations. A third issue is using noncompatible patch materials or not allowing proper curing which results in adhesion problems, so select a patch that bonds to cementitious beds and follow cure times and mixing ratios exactly.
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