Start by repairing the kicked-in door jamb so it will stop being a weak point for future break-ins.
Begin by removing damaged wood and fitting a solid repair using a properly sized wooden or metal jamb kit that matches the jamb thickness and profile. Use carriage bolts or structural screws at least three inches long to draw the jamb and framing together through the jamb into the wall stud behind it for load transfer; predrill to avoid splitting. Replace the strike plate with a heavy-duty three inch strike plate and secure it with screws that penetrate into the stud or a reinforced header piece. Upgrade the deadbolt to a one inch throw, Grade one or comparable lock, and make sure the bolt fully extends into a reinforced strike pocket; add a reinforced metal plate or box behind the strike pocket if the jamb is thin. Add a door edge reinforcement kit or door armor that ties the lock, strike and hinges together so force is distributed across the door rather than concentrated at the jamb. Finally check hinge screws and use three inch screws on the hinge side as well, and test the door by applying controlled force at the lock area to verify the reinforcement holds and the door aligns properly.
Homeowners commonly leave short screws in the strike and hinges which lets the next kick split the jamb again, so replace them with screws long enough to reach the stud and retest engagement. Another frequent issue is using a weak or shallow strike plate that pulls out easily, so swap to a reinforced plate and, if needed, install a metal box behind the strike to stop wood failure. People sometimes focus only on the lock cylinder and ignore the door slab and frame; balance upgrades by reinforcing the frame, hinges and adding a door edge reinforcement so an attacker cannot bypass a strong deadbolt by attacking the surrounding wood.
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