Cut scrap wood to match the roof thickness and cut it to fit the hole so the patch sits flat and ties into the rafters.

Measure the hole and the surrounding decking and trace the scrap wood to match the exact thickness and edge profile of the existing roof sheathing. If the decking is three quarters of an inch thick, use scrap that is also three quarters of an inch so the shingles lie flat and do not create a ridge. Find the nearest rafter and plan to anchor your repair into the center of that rafter or into blocking between rafters so the new piece has structural support. Cut the scrap with a circular saw or handsaw using the traced lines and back the cut with a scrap board to reduce tearout on the top surface. Dry fit the piece and add small filler blocks where seams meet, similar to backing used in drywall patches, to take up any gaps and prevent rocking when you nail the patch down. Use corrosion resistant nails or screws set below the surface and seal seams with a compatible roofing adhesive or underlayment strip before reinstalling shingles.

The three most common problems are using wood that is too thin so the shingles ripple, failing to secure the patch into a rafter which makes it loose, and leaving gaps that let moisture get under the shingles. If the wood is too thin replace it with material that matches the original thickness or laminate pieces until the thickness is correct so the shingles lay flat. Always locate and fasten into rafter center or add blocking between rafters so the patch is anchored and will not flex underfoot. For gaps, route the edges square, add filler blocks or tapered shims as needed, and use a continuous underlayment or compatible roofing sealant to keep water out.

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