Spray targeted two-foot ribbons and key entry points around your home to block the most common insect entry paths.

Start by treating a continuous two-foot band of ground around the foundation using a labeled perimeter insecticide, keeping the spray pattern low and even to create a barrier insects avoid crossing. Focus on cracks and crevices in the foundation, sill plates, and gap edges by applying a residual product or an oil-based contact formulation directly into openings with a precision nozzle so the treatment penetrates where insects hide. Pay special attention to windows and door frames; spray both the exterior threshold and inside the frame recess where weather stripping sits, because moisture and tiny gaps attract and conceal pests. When siding meets masonry, spray the joint and the underside of the lowest siding panel to reach the void where insects travel along the gap between materials. Revisit areas that have shown past activity, such as persistent ant trails or clustered cobwebs, and treat those spots thoroughly to interrupt established pathways. If the product label allows, treat the soil and mulch at the base of trees and shrubs that contact the house but avoid heavy runoff; treating up to the trunk base can reduce bridging from vegetation onto the structure.

Homeowners often overapply product by soaking landscaping to the point of runoff, which wastes material and can harm plants; instead apply in even bands and stop when the surface looks damp but not pooled. Another common mistake is treating only visible surfaces and ignoring voids and overlaps under siding or along utility penetrations; use a narrow stream or foam injector to reach hidden gaps without spraying excessive surface area. People also neglect reinspection and retreatment schedules, assuming a single application lasts indefinitely; track labeled residual intervals and reapply before activity resumes, and always follow safety and reentry directions on the product label.

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